Permanent wave curler



Nov. 24, 1936.

H. "H. EcKsTElN 2,061,998

PERMANENT WAVE CURLER, I I

Filed July le, 1934 2 sheets-sheet 1` NOV. 24, 1936. v H. ECKSTElN v2,061,998

PERMANENT WAVE CURLER Filed July 16, 1954 ,.2 Sheets-Sheet 2 PatentedNov. 24, 1936 UNITED sTATEs artists ?ATENT OFFICE 16 Claims.

My invention relates to devices used in making so-called permanent hairwaves. There are many devices used for making the so-called permanenthair waves, of different types, but as the hair grows, the permanentwave is only left in the old hair, the new growth having no waves orcurls unless natural, in which case, the person would hardly ever have apermanent wave.

In most of the prior procedures in which new hair is to receive apermanent wave it has been customary and also necessary to also re-wavethe old hair which still has a permanent wave left therein. Thisprocedure of repeatedly giving a permanent wave in the usual manner tothe end portions of the hair is injurious to the hair, and therefore itis desirable to only give the permanent wave to the new growth.

My invention relates to an apparatus partic- 20 ularly designed to givea new permanent wave to a new growth of hair and having a curling meansto retain the formerly permanently waved hair in a curl but removed fromthe influence of a heating element, or the like, used to give thepermanent wave to the new hair.

My invention also relates to a type of curling rod in which hair may bewound r coiled and held tight for winding or twisting thereon, forforming the permanent wave, and in order to 30 accommodate the newgrowth hair, I form the curling rod of a telescopic type. Such rod ispreferably made tubular and has a telescopic extension on which the newhair is wound or twisted on the main or stationary portion of the tubeand the end portions having the formerly permanently waved part of thehair may be wound or coiled on one end of the fixed curler rod sectionand 0n the telescopic section which may be pulled out. Therefore, whenused with a holder and heating appliance, the new hair only is subjectedtoy the heat for giving a permanent wave.

My invention also relates to a combination assembly with a clamp orholding device which is attached to the hair and on which clamp thecurling rod is mounted and held in place. This clamp has a guide elementpreferably in the form of a pin which restricts the spread of the hairlongitudinally of the clamp so that the hair may be held at one end ofthe clamp and the new hair coiled on the curling rod, and the endportions which have been formerly permanently waved may be wound on theopposite end of the main section of the curling rod and the telescopicextension.

Another feature of my invention relates to the combination assembly ofthe holder or clamp for the hair, the telescopic curling rod and the useof a steam pad mounted in a holder centering the heat developed by thispad when moistened, to heat only the new growth hair wound lon thecurling rod and leaving the coiled or wound ends which have formerlybeen permanently waved on the rod remote from the influence of the heatof the steam pad. Such steaming pads are well known in the art anddevelop a heat after being moistened.

My invention is applicable to form typical croquignole waves, it beingparticularly adapted for forming this type of wave on short hair. I mayalso form a spiral croquignole combination wave which is particularlyadapted for waving long hair, and a type of wave known as reverse spiralwhich is better adapted for hair of medium length.

My invention further relates to detailed features of construction, forinstance, the curling rod has been mentioned and may have the usualspring held plug at the end for exerting a twisting tension on the rod,the inner telescopic section is preferably longitudinally slotted, andhas the pin extending through the diametrically opposite slots, the pinbeing countersunk in the fixed tube. The sockets or holes are providedby a head on the end of the telescopic section so that the whole lengthof the expansible rod may be rotated to give a tying twist to the hair.

With my invention as regards the clamp, I employ a guide pin which isused to conne the new hair to one end of the device when the permanentwave is to be made only in the new hair.

In making a full croquignole wave on all the hair, the tip of the hairis rst attached to the curling rod by jaw in the usual manner, and thehair is spread and wound complete on the rod between the end brackets ofthe clamp or support. In this case the hair straddles on both sides ofthe stop pin. With my invention, a heat guard is used between the hairwound on the curling rod and the clamp, and the steaming pad issupported in this guard over the top and outside of the curling rod andthe hair wound therein. In forming a partial permanent or croquignolewave on the new hair, this is gripped at about the junction line of thenew hair and the former permanent wave, the ends of the hair having theold wave are given a helical twist by hand around the expansible curlingrod, and then the new hair is wound on the curling rod and the proceduredone as above described.

In making a reverse spiral the tip end of the hair is gripped adjacentone end of the curling iron and is wound in a helical twist lengthwiseof this curling iron so that in the full croquignole wave or reversespiral the heating pad extends the full length of the hair to be waved,but in giving the croquignole or permanent wave on the new hair only thesteaming pad is of sufficient length to cover only this new hair.

My invention is illustrated in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is an illustration of a person having one of my devices attachedto the hair.

Fig. 2 is a plane taken in the direction of the arrow 2 of Fig. 3,showing making a permanent wave on the new hair only, the -hair havingthe former wave being helically twisted on the telescopic curling rod.

Fig. 3 is a longitudinal section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2 in thedirection of the arrows..

Fig. 4 is a section similar to Fig. 3 but with the n bottom portion 21whenthe hair is being wound telescopic end ofthe rod forced inwardly formaking complete croquignole or reverse spiral permanent waves.

Fig. 5 is a transverse section on the line 5 5 of Fig. 4 in thedirection of the arrows showing the strand of hair gripped by the clampand wound on the curling rod andthe heating pad mounted in place.

Fig. 6 is a transverse section on the line 6--6 of Fig. 4 in thedirection of the arrows, the end portion of the heating pad beingomitted.

Fig. '1 is an illustration of the curling rod in its contracted positionshowing the initial grip on the end of a strand of hair prior-to windingthe hair-to form a croquignole wave.

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. '1 showing the hair completely wound inplace for forming a croquignole permanent wave.

Fig. 9 is a View similar to Fig. 7 showing the manner of attaching astrand of hair to the telescopic curling rod at the junction linebetween the end having the former permanent wave and the new hair.

Fig. l0 is a view similar to Fig. 9 showing new hair wound on thecurling rod to form a croquignole wave and the ends of the hair havingthe former wave twisted on the extended curling rod in a helical twist.

Fig. l1 is a view similar to' Fig. '7 showing the initial grip of theends'of a strand of hair on the curling rod to form a reverse spiralWave.

Fig. 12 is a View similarto Fig. 11 showing the strand of hair wound ina helical twistl on the curling iron for forming a reverse spiralpermanent wave.

In order to understand my invention it is necessary to describe certainstructures which are old, and now used, to which my invention isapplied.

In the old structurethere is clamp I I which has a fixed jaw member I2formedy of a block I3 with a slot I4 therethrough to accommodate hingesandvlatch of the movable jaw I5. This movable jaw generally has acovering I6 of rubber, or the like,vand the xed jaw is made of wood orbre.

There are'two brackets I1 secured to the fixed jaw structure, .one ateach end, and onebracket has a slot I8 with a square bottom constructionfor apurpose hereinunder detailed. The other bracket has a slot I9rounded at the bottom as indicated at 20, these slots being for thepurpose of accommodating the` curling rod to be hereunder detailed. Withthis construction I use also, part on, this being an old construction indetail.

of the old features including a trough-shaped holder and heat deilector2I which has a base 22, side anges 23 and a longitudinal slot 24 throughwhich the hair to be curled or waved extends. The heating pad 25 is of atype now used but I make provision for using a shorter length of this insome cases. This pad when moistened develops heat sufficient to steamand heat the hair while being given the different forms of permanentwave.

My immediate invention resides in the telescopic curling rod designatedgenerally by the assembly numeral 26. This rod has an outer xed tubularsection 21 with a square plug 28 at one end. This plug is designed toengage in a slot I8 having a squared bottom as this prevents the plugfrom rotating, and is used to develop a twist in the curling rod whenhair is wound there- The gripping linger 29 is pivoted at 30 to its xedtubular section andlies along the rsurface of the thereon. This tubularsection is open at the end 3l remote from the plug end 28.

The telescopic section 32 is also preferably tubular and slides throughthe open end 3| of the tube 21.v Therev arevdiametrically opposite slots33 in the telescopic tube 32 and through these slots extends a rivet 34,the rivet beingsecured to the outer tubeV 21 and having counter-sunkheads'. This forms` a guide for the sliding motion of the outer ortelescopic section and allows a twist to be communicated by the mediumof the head 35 which has pin holes 36 for engaging a pin type of wrenchwhich may be'used to obtain a tight twist on lthe hair when wound on thecurling rod.

It will be noted that the end 3 I of the outer tube fits inside ofthebracket I1 having the circular bottom 20. When the outer telescopicend is thrust inwardly the neck 31 of the head may ride in this slot asindicated at Fig. 4, but when the rod is pulled out and the'hair istwisted or wound 4on'the main portion 21 of the extension, this twistedhair rides in the slot I9 of the bracket I1.

Another feature of my invention relates to a guide pin 38 which isinserted in the fixed jaw of the holder construction and is locatedbetween the plates where the hair is gripped by the two jaws and thebottom 22 `of the holder and heat de flector 2I. This guide pin isapproximately in a midposition between the two end brackets I1.

In using my invention to make croquignole type of permanent wave on thenew growth hair only, leaving the former permanent Wave on the endportion'of the hair without curling, the procedure is as follows, havingreference to Figs. 3, 9, and l0.

In Fig. 9, the new growth hair is indicated by the numeral 39 andtheformer permanent wave portion on the 'end part'of the hair by thenumeral. 40. The hair is then gripped on the curling rod at the line 4Ibetween the new growth hair and the formerly waved portion. This part ofthe hair is also retained on the left hand end of the curling rod asshown in Fig'. 3 by the guide pin 38 which is. secured to the clamp. Theformer permanent wave portion 4I) is twistedand coiled in a .helicalcurlindicated at 42 in Fig. 3, by hand, on the main portion 21. ofthecurling rod and the extension end Vwhich is drawn outI as shown inFigs. 9, l0, and 3. The new growth hair 39 is thus wound on the curlingrod with a spiral wind indicated at 43. (Figs. 3 and 9). With thecurling rod then adjusted in the brackets of the holder, a short heatingpad 25 is inserted in the holding and heat deecting plate 2| and this isonly of such length that it will cover and apply moist heat to the newgrowth hair when this pad is moistened and thus becomes heat. It will benoted by reference to Fig. 3 that the formerly waved portion of the hairindicated by the helically twisted part 42 is not subject to heat.

If it is desired to make a croquignole type of permanent wave on thewhole of the hair, the procedure is illustrated in connection with Figs.4, 7, and 8. Fig. 7 shows a tip portion 44 of a strand of hair beinggripped and attached to the curling rod at about its central section andthus strand wound by a spiral type of winding 45 which develops acroquignole type of wave. In this case the hair straddles the guide pin38 and is spread practically the entire length of the holder between theends of the pad holder 2|. The heating pad 25 in this case is thus usedfull length and heats, when dampened, the completely wound hair. In thisinstance the extension or telescopic end of the curling rod may bethrust inwardly as it is not necessary to coil the hair thereon.

In making a so-called reverse spiral type of permanent wave theprocedure illustrated in Figs. 11 and 12 is adopted. In this case thetip end 46 of a strand of hair is gripped on the curling rod adjacentone end and the hair is wound in a helical twist as indicated at 41 onthe rod. The end of the strand of hair is adjacent the clamp and holderand thus the scalp is at one end of the rod when so wound as indicatedat 48. In this case, the telescopic end of the rod is thrust inwardly asthe hair is not wound thereon. The curling rod is properly adjusted inthe hair and the heating pad 25 extends the full length of the hair tobe treated and thus all of the hair is subject to the moist heat whileretained in a helical winding on the curling rod and thus develops whatis known as a reverse spiral permanent wave.

It will thus be seen that with my new type of telescopic curling rod,together with the use f the guide pin on the holder, I may give acroquignole type of wave on only the new growth of hair, leaving theformerly waved end portions for application of heat. I may also use thecurling rod to give a croquignole type of wave on the whole of the hairfrom the tip of a strand to the portion gripped in the holder adjacentthe scalp, or I may also, with the same device, give a permanent wave ofthe reverse spiral type.

When the hair is twisted into a so-called spiral twist on the extendedmandrel as shown in Figs. 2, 3, and '7, such end which is adjacent thehead 35 is tied with a string or the equivalent. This is a commonprocedure. Where the end of the hair is engaged by the gripping finger29 as shown in Fig. 7, manifestly such end is held on the curling rodand is overlapped in making either a spiral or croquignole type of wind.Moreover, the hair is wet when wound on the curling rod and on theextension and therefore when supported in the notches I2 and I9 of theclamp or holder, the hair does not unwind.

The guide pin 38 is, as above mentioned, secured in the clamp and isdesigned to retain a portion of the hair at one side of the guide pin,this being at the left hand side for the croquignole wound portion asindicated in Fig. 3. Manifestly as the root portions of the hair areengaged by the clamp the hair is thus retained tightly wound on thecurling rod.

Various changes may be made in the details of construction withoutdeparting from the scope of the invention as defined by the appendedclaims.

I claim:

1. A permanent wave curler comprising, in combination, a clamp having atleast two elements to clamp a strand of hair and having a pair ofbrackets, a tubular curling rod having a telescopic extension slidabletherein, means to transmit a twisting force from the extension to thetubular portion of the rod, the said rod being mounted in the saidbrackets and adapted to have the hair to be curled wound thereon on oneportion of the main part of the rod and having the hair to be leftuncurled twisted on another portion of the rod and on the saidtelescopic extension when in its extended position, and means to apply aheating element to the end portion of the rod only, having the hair tobe curled wound thereon, the means to apply heat comprising a holder anda heat deiiector, and a heating pad mounted therein, the said padextending longitudinally of the rod and covering only the portion of therod having the hair to be curled on such rod.

2. A permanent wave curler as claimed in claim 1, a guide pin secured tothe clamp at about the mid position between the brackets to retain astrand of hair between the pin and one of the brackets.

3. A permanent wave curler comprising, in combination, a clamp having arelatively xed portion and a movable jaw to clamp a strand of hair, apair of brackets secured to the Xed portion, a tubular curling rodhaving an internal pin, a telescopic section slidable in the tubular rodand having a slot, the said pin extending through the slot, means on theend of the extension to exert a twist on the rod as a whole, the saidrod being mounted in the said brackets.

4. A permanent wave curler as claimed in claim 3, a guide pin secured tothe relatively xed portion of the clamp to retain a strand of hairbetween the pin and one of the brackets, the portion of the curling rodbetween the pin and the same bracket being adapted for winding hair tobe curled, the remaining portion of the curling rod and the extensionbeing adapted for twisting the hair to be left uncurled thereon in ahelical twist.

5. A permanent Wave curler as claimed in claim 3, the holder and heatdeilector and a heating pad surrounding the said curling rod, the padeX- tending between the guide pin and the bracket and adapted to heatthe hair to be curled Wound on the rod.

6. In a permanent wave curler, a tubular curling rod having an internalpin therein, a rod extension slidable in one end having a slot, the pinextending through the said slot, the tubular rod being adapted forwinding hair thereon in a spiral wind and the said extension beingadapted for coiling hair thereon in a helical twist, and a hair grippinglinger hinged to the tubular curling rod.

'7. In a permanent wave curler as claimed in claim 6, the curling rodbeing combined with and mounted on a hair clamp having brackets at itsopposite end, the tubular curling rod having means engaging one of thebrackets to retain the rod with hair wound thereon, the other brackethaving a slot to engage the extension rod with the hair twisted thereonand means on the extension for exerting a twist on the extension and thecurling rod.

8. A permanent wave curler comprising in combination, a clamp having atleast two elements to clamp a strand of hair, a rst bracket on one endofthe clamp, a curling rod having one end engaged in the rst bracket toretain the rod in position with hair wound thereon, the opposite end ofthe rod having a bearing in a second bracket with a head located outsideof the latter bracket for twisting the rod, said rod having a finger forgripping a strand of hair, a portion of the rod between the bracketsbeing adapted for winding hair in the spiral wind for a croquignole typeof wave, the remainder of the rod between the spirally wound hair andthe second bracket and between the second bracket and said head beingadapted to retain hair in a helical twist, and means to apply heat to aportion of the rod between the brackets having the hair spirally wo-undthereon, the bearing in the second bracket being adapted to support aportion of a rod which extends beyond the second bracket, such portionbeing adapted to have hair twisted thereon.

located between the brackets and an inner extension section adapted toextend beyond the first bracket, means on the end of the extension fortwisting the curling rod, means interconnecting the inner and outerportions of the rod to communicate a twist to the outer portion of therod, interengaging means between the second bracket and the end of therod having the outer portion to restrain said rod from rotation whenhair is coiled or twisted thereon, the first bracket being adapted tosupport the extension portion of the rod extending beyond the firstbracket with hair twisted on the extension portion of the rod.

11. A permanent wave curler as claimed in claim l0, a heat applyingdevice having a holder for a pad of heating material, a heat delector,the said pad being located between the brackets and covering only partof the curling rod between the brackets.

12. A permanent wave curler, comprising in combination a clamp andholder for hair adapted to clamp a strand of hair adjacent its roots, acurling rod, a rst bracket, an interengaging means between the firstbracket and the curling rod to restrain the rod from rotation, a secondbracket having a slot, the said rod having a tube and an innertelescopic section slidable in the tube, there being a slot in thesecond bracket to engage and support the extension section of the rod,means on the outer end of the extension section of the rod to rotate theextension section, anv interengaging means'`r between the extensionsection of the rod and the tube to communicate rotation from theextension to the tube, the tube being adapted to have a strand of hairWound in a spiral turn thereon on a portion of the tube, the remainderof the tube and the extension of the rod being adapted tohave theremainder of the strand of hair twisted in a helical turn thereon, thesaid slot of the second bracket being adapted to accommodate a portionof the strand of hair twisted on the extension of the rod passingthrough the said slot.

13. A permanent wave curler as claimed in' claim 12, a heatingI padmounted in the holder and surrounding the tube. portion of the rodhaving the hair wound in a spiral wind thereon, the said heating padbeing of shorter length than the distance between the` rst and secondbrackets.

14. A permanent wave curler as claimed in claim 12, a guide pin securedto the clamp and holder between the brackets, said guide pin beingadapted to engage a strand of hair and confine the portion of the hairadapted to be wound With the spiral turn on the curling rod.

15. A permanent wave curler, comprising in combination a holdingstructure having a pair of brackets, a curling rod, an interconnectingmeans between one end of the rod and a rst bracket, the rod having atube and an extension slidably housed therein, the extension having aneck, the outside diameter of the neck being the same as that of theoutside of the tube and the housed portion of the extension being ofless diameter than the outside of the tube, the second bracket having aslot to'engage the neck when the extension is in its innermost position,the

extension having means on its end whereby saidextension may be turned, aconnection between the tube and the extension for turningthe tubeportion of the rod, the -rod being adapted for coiling and twisting hairthereon, the slot in the second bracket being adapted to engage hairtwisted on the extension when drawn outwardly from the tube and wherebythe hair twisted on the extension spaces the extension the same distancefrom the slot of the bracket as the spacing caused by the said neckengaging the said slot.

16. A permanent wave curler comprising in combination a clamp and holderfor hair, a telescopic curling rod about which hair to be curled isadapted to be wound on a portion of such rod, the rod having anextension forming part of the telescope, whereby the part of the hairwhich is to be left uncurled maybe twisted on the said extension, theholder having means to cooperate with the curling rod to support the rodwith the hair wound thereon, a heating medium mounted,"

in the holder and located to apply heat only to the part of the hairwound on the rod and which is to be curled, and a guide means on theclamp to guide and restrict the location of the hair to be curled in oneportion of the clamp and on one portion of the curling rod.`

HARRY H. ECKSTEIN.

